Having been to Jordan 4 times I had never had the experience of catching a taxi. As you walk around the city you hear constant car horns. Some are frustrated drivers, some are people alerting their friends they are near, while others are taxi drivers asking if you want a taxi. After a few days of walking in the heat, I relented and decided to catch my first taxi. On my phone, I Google Mapped the route which gives you a taxi or UBER price guide. With this information, I felt more comfortable catching a taxi. The following few paragraphs are a few of my experiences with Taxies in Amman.
I exited my hotel and saw a taxi parked directly out the front. I asked him if he was available, I showed him a screenshot of the destination I wanted in Arabic, he indicated he would accept my ride, so I entered the taxi. As I entered I said ON THE METER and we drove off. He spoke English, so we chatted as we drove the 2km. As we drove I kept my eye on the meter over the journey. The ride cost a total of 1.36JD (A$2.80). I handed over 2JD (A$4), the driver went into his coins to give me change, I motioned don’t worry, when he said Thank you, Thank you. I said have a great day and exited the taxi.
Later in the day, I met an Australian couple who had been in Jordan for 5 days and were leaving the next day. As we talked I mentioned about getting a taxi up the hill to the Citadel, they seemed hesitant. They explained a few experiences they had experienced with public transport and I was so disappointed.
One taxi driver charged them 20JD for a ride that should only have been a few Jordanian Dinar (JD). The also said that a bus driver had also charged them 20JD for a bus trip that should have been much less. They said on that occasion there were two men. When they handed the correct money for the ride the man indicated no. They handed over the large note when the driver did a quick switch of the large note to smaller notes and gave change for a smaller note. Hot, tired, confused, and intimidated they took the change offered and left.
This is a sad indictment when honest budget-conscious travellers being ripped off. We had a discussion about consensually ripped-off. It is ok to consent to be ripped off when you buy an overpriced Chinese made souvenirs or traditional food in a tourist restaurant, though not through genuine misdeeds. These visitors will recite this story to friends, family, and colleagues who will, in turn, recite it to other people. A lot of people, potential visitors will not want to put themselves into this situation and will not choose to come to Jordan.
I completely understand the desperation and poverty that may drive people to act this way. I know they don’t understand that bigger picture of what their actions do. Poor wages, high inflation, no government social security, working long hours for little money etc., all drive people to do whatever they can to get by.
This little windfalls of theft, rob the nation of an honest reputation.
Undaunted, on the way back to my hotel I decided I would catch a taxi up the hill. A newer taxi pulled up, lowered the passenger side window, I told him my destination, as I looked over the dashboard for a meter I couldn’t see one, so I got nervous and said don’t bother and walked away. Very hot by now I decided to try again, A newer cab pulled up, lowered the passenger side window and I was greeted by a blast of cold air conditioning. I told him my destination as I searched the dashboard for a meter and still couldn’t see one, I took a deep breath and said 2JD. He agreed and I climbed into the back seat. I told him my destination again, showing 3 fingers for 3rd Circle. He couldn’t speak English so I pulled out my Google Map with the directions and handed him my phone.
One day I caught a taxi from the Roman Amphitheatre to the Citadel which I was told by a local should only cost about 1JD. I just stood beside the street for less than a minute. An old taxi pulled up, when I looked inside it was damaged and warn,, I threw caution to the wind and slid into the back seat. The traffic was slow to start with roadworks. As the traffic thinned out we zigzagged up the hill.
When I finished at the Citadel, I was warned by a friend that getting a taxi from the Citadel would be more expensive, so walk down the hill a little. There are taxis available as you come out of the Citadel. I knew that I should pay no more than 3JD to go 3km to 3rd Circle. When I came out a man approached me offering a taxi, I said wanted to go to 3rd Circle and said I’d pay 3JD. He spoke to another man and walked away. The second man said, 5. I said to the first man, who is taking me, the first man pointed to the second man. I said he wants 5JD he won’t take 3. He said 5, I said no, I will walk. They were like the Taxi Mafia or Cartel. I walked to the street and a taxi came. I asked him if he’d take me to 3rd Circle for 3JD? He said yes. I climbed in and we rattled down the hill.
On another occasion, as I waited for a taxi beside the busy streets in the Old Town area, a taxi pulled up but as I went to get into the back seat, there was a lady sitting there. I apologised and went to leave the taxi. The driver motioned to me that it was OK and to get into the front seat. Without hesitation, I entered the taxi. As we drove the few kilometres up to 3rd circle we chatted and laughed as best we could in broken English.
Another interesting experience happened after a 5-hour JETT bus from Aqaba. I caught a taxi from Abwali 7th Circle JETT office to 3rd Circle. I Googled the price for a 3km journey was 5JD. I said ‘ON THE METRE’, but he refused, I said, pull over and let me out. He wouldn’t stop. He said ‘10JD’. I said, ‘no, 5JD’. I said again, ‘pull over let me out’. He wouldn’t. It went back and forth he came down to 9 I went up to 7. I just quit as we went into a massive traffic jam. After 20 minutes I arrived at my hotel. I handed him 10JD, in a 5JD and 5 ones. He said, ‘10 that’s 6’. I said, ‘bullshit it’s 10’. The bastard had switched the 5JD out for a 1JD and said it was 6. I got out of the cab as quickly as I could, pulled my bag out of the front seat, ignoring his protest.
Pack your bags and come explore Jordan with me. Happy Travels!
